When Michael McCarty opened his restaurant in 1979, he was intent on introducing the farm-to-table aesthetic that came to be called California cuisine. Some of the country’s finest chefs cooked here: Ken Frank, Jonathan Waxman, Mark Peel, Nancy Silverton. Their spirit lives on in today’s menu, which abounds with local ingredients: beet salad with hazelnut-crusted chevre and wild arugula, wild striped bass with melted leeks and potato-chorizo hash.