Now that an entire generation has been weaned on Matsuhisa’s spicy brand of sushi, the restaurant has regained its reputation as a serious spot. The chefs wait to see whether you’re one more newbie who’s come for signature preparations like the toro with caviar or the uni shooter with bonito broth. Prove to them that you appreciate raw fish in all its translucent variety, and you can enjoy a beautifully crafted meal.