Magnolia House

A tree stands in the midst of this indoor-outdoor number that is more candlelit lounge and bar than restaurant. That said, the short list of comfort-leaning dishes can hold their heads high: edamame with salt, sesame seeds, or chili; a cheeseburger with sautéed onions; mac and cheese with a sourdough crust served in a crock; bayou pizza (with tasso); cornflake fried chicken; and chili. First-rate wines-by-the-glass list.