Twenty-five years ago Jean-Louis DeMori and Antonio Tommasi opened the romantic Locanda Veneta on 3rd Street. They’ve since cut ties with the restaurant and now are attempting a more humble osteria downtown. Romantic is not a word we’d use to describe the place, which is across from Grand Central Market in what was once a Korean fast-food joint. The lack of a wine license doesn’t help. But the affordable pastas—as well as the bona fide Italian service—exude heart. Hand-cut linguine laps up a Venetian-style duck ragù. For fans of Locanda’s gnocchi, the tender pillows have found a new home here.Trippa con passatelli, a Roman tripe and calf stew with plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano, warms the soul.