Los Balcones del Perú

Of all the great dishes at this stronghold of Peruvian cuisine—like the warm, hominy-studded, chile-spiked shrimp ceviche known as camarones a la piedra—the greatest may be the one that sounds the least tempting: chicharrones de pollo, which is to say, nuggets of chicken fried so vigorously they resemble pork rinds. But these dark, thin curls of flesh are infused with an almost carnal intensity.