Le Comptoir

After four years roaming L.A. with his pop-up, Gary Menes has put down roots in Koreatown’s revived Normandie Hotel. The counter accommodates only ten seats, but the elbow-to-elbow experience is one of Le Comptoir’s defining features, along with a quasi-religious emphasis on produce culled from Menes’s organic farm. Crispy slivers of fried bread sub for pancetta atop a mountain yam velouté. Preserved blueberries add sweetness to buttery slices of roasted squash. High rollers can supplement their vegetarian tasting menu with dry-aged côte de boeuf, but the most impressive plate is a delicate mosaic of cooked fruits and vegetables.