So the Pico Boulevard location could do with a coat of paint. Still, to see a roomful of people leaning into their juicy sandwiches and sipping their cream sodas gladdens the heart. Label’s interior has a kind of austerity. There is no table service—customers order at the counter and wait for their number to be called—but the impression of starkness dissolves before one of the towering sandwiches. Hot corned beef with a side of Sky-Hi Slaw is superlative. The newer Woodland Hills branch—in a mall, next to a FedEx Kinko’s—is far more cheerful and just as good as the 33-year-old original. Busboys and waitresses bustle, serving fine pastrami sandwiches to the crowd.