La Morenita Oaxaqueña

The clientele consists of uprooted Oaxacans, mole fiends, and ravenous Chowhounds at this little cube of lime green paint in the corner of a strip mall. The menu is festooned with goodies (tlayudas, a form of indigenous pizza that substitutes mozzarella cheese with chèvre, is noteworthy), but it’s the enmoladas—tortillas drenched in a dark, fiery sauce—that achieve the epitome
of modest excellence.