When sushi chef Katsuya Uechi joined with SBE to open Katsu-ya, some die-hard fans were disappointed. Kiwami is Uechi’s gift to them. The master is sometimes there doting on aficionados at the small sushi bar as well as families at tables with udon-slurping tykes. Hits include melt-away hunks of kanpachi in a tangy ponzu-Dijon dressing and dollops of uni atop smoked yellowtail.