Kiriko Sushi

Diminutive Kiriko looks like one more sushi spot, but it is among the best. The chefs set themselves apart with their command of bigger flavors. Miso soup with a meaty fish collar achieves a kind of absolute; the ramekin of sun-dried daikon sounds an ancestral note. The salmon is smoked at such a low temperature that the texture remains yielding and the applewood charcoal permeates the flesh with flavor.