Kantaro Sushi

A remote control wrapped in plastic sits on the counter. Boxes of nori and beer are stacked by the wall. Cat figurines are scattered on every surface. Kantaro is a sushi restaurant at one remove from the living room. Kantaro and Erika Oguma opened their idiosyncratic spot in a Torrance minimall 14 years ago. Erika wears jeans and a traditional multipocketed apron; Kantaro works with Clippers and Lakers pins affixed to his jacket. (This may be the only sushi restaurant in L.A. where a bobblehead doll of Yankee slugger Hideki Matsui is a kitchen god.) Kantaro’s sushi has a rounded quality; it exists in the domain of the everyday. He includes a segment of canned peach with the lunch special because it provides a sweet ending. The middle passages of the $34.50 omakase menu offer delights such as blue crab en papillote accompanied by café au lait colored enoki mushroom sushi.