The wood-paneled room projects an undeniable stateliness, but Suzanne Tracht and her longtime chef, Preech Narkthong, are as fluent in modern idioms as they are in old-school set pieces. Brussels sprouts might be fired up with kimchi. At brunch the signature dish is the chilaquiles, and the watermelon juice mimosa is as refreshing as any agua fresca. Then again, the pot roast with browned onions and a side of chunky house-made applesauce is as potent as anything on the menu.