This neighborhood is old hat for Brian Malarkey. The TV chef and San Diego heavyweight first worked the line at the storied Citrus in nearby Hollywood. He’s now at the Mondrian hotel, and his spin on surf and turf would seem a sure fit. There are a few wrinkles, though. A tidy oyster selection would benefit from someone explaining which quivering bivalve is which. The best part of any Louie salad—that pudding-thick pink dressing—is here reduced to a smear beneath an overwhelming pile of roughage. We do, however, fully support the house fish-and-chips with a pickley sauce gribiche. That and the tony Skybar-adjacent patio are reason enough to cruise the Strip.