Vic Casanova has a Bronx accent as thick as his hand-cut tonnarelli, and he works a kitchen knife as deftly as he does a celebrity-packed dining room. But gigs at luxury hotel restaurants—including the Four Seasons’ Culina—left him unfulfilled. Gusto, an unassuming but hopelessly charming West 3rd Street nook, is his dream realized. Here Casanova puts out what he wants, whether it’s a pork spin on braciola that’s not much to look at but tastes like Nonna’s, or the sophisticated sweet-breads mila-nese with arugula. Handmade pastas, unfussy pizzas, and pork meatballs satisfy a neighborhood need.