Gus’s Barbecue

The South Pasadena institution, long regarded more for its neon sign than for its food, has been spiffed up by new owners. Historical photos dot the walls, and behind the big bar is the corrugated metal required of retro rib joints. There’s a mess of comfort food classics—mac and cheese, burgers, potpie—and while barbecue items like Memphis-style baby backs and the smoked-brick chicken don’t impress, the bar patrons and families who crowd the restaurant seem happy all the same.