Guelaguetza

Top Ten Mexican Restaurants: No. 10, November 2010

An authentic Oaxacan restaurant located in a former Korean banquet hall makes for a happy jumble. The clayudas, giant tortillas, are irresistible when spread with asiento, a traditional condiment that could pass for whipped lardo. Moles are a specialty. Thick with pounded almonds, olives, and roasted chiles, the almendrado is a tapestry of interwoven elements. Most evenings there is live music, but on Thursdays classic Mexican films are shown. Seeing abuelas and Korean hipsters laugh at the comedian Cantinflas’s pratfalls is to understand Guelaguetza. It’s perfectly L.A.