At the apex of Abbot Kinney’s love affair with beach-chic fashion and local produce lies Gjelina. Wood-fired small plates arrive aggressively dressed, like grilled leaves of Treviso radicchio drenched in funky bagna cauda or sweet roasted parsnips in hazelnut picada. Like it or not, you’ll probably be seated at one of the communal tables, where thin, char-freckled pizzas battle for space alongside glasses of Slovenian Rebula.