The sidewalk seating, dimly lit dining room, distressed mirrors, and tables this-close-together might put you in mind of a Left Bank bistro where vos amis discuss Voltaire. This place is French—and organic—as can be; at your table there’s a ten-page treatise on sustainability. The food is expensive for bistro fare, and you might miss the salt—not used in this kitchen. Best perhaps to sit at the bar, peruse the impressive wine list, and nibble on classics like escargots and chocolate soufflé. The food is served until midnight on weekdays, 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday nights.