Father’s Office 2.0

A visit to “Father’s Office 2.0”—the long-awaited Culver City sequel to the minuscule, ever-crowded Santa Monica gastropub—spurs a range of emotions. There’s hope, as you step to the back of the line. Disappointment as you realize you haven’t moved in 15 minutes. Jealousy as you view the 50 or so patrons munching sweet potato fries (still no ketchup) on the expansive front patio. Surprise as you note the spaciousness, the clean wood lines, and the relative calm. Awe as you take in the wall of 72 taps dispensing craft beers like rare Belgians and boutique IPAs, plus more taps for custom-made kegs of wine, plus a list of throwback gin cocktails. Relief as you’re guided by the knowledgeable bar staff to a hoppy brew. Satisfaction with your starters of smoked eel with horseradish crème fraîche and asparagus topped with crispy serrano ham. And finally, something close to nirvana as you bite into that same dripping, caramelized-onion-topped burger that makes the whole wait worth it.