Sumi Chang’s café is a neighborhood focal point that’s seldom without a stroller or two parked tableside while their operators ogle the possibilities. Chocolate croissant? Pear cake heavy with fruit, brown sugar, and butter? Dense, cupcake-shaped brownie? Ahhh, maybe almond toast: a fat slice of brioche moistened with lavender, almond extract, and marzipan and topped with a raft of sliced almonds. Chang’s experience at La Brea Bakery makes itself evident in breads like the cranberry-walnut loaf. “It’s great with cheese,” she says, popping one into a bag. Perhaps. But the yeasty nut-and-fruit medley really doesn’t need any company.