El Huarachito

Best Mexican Breakfast, August 2008

Combine Mom’s most soothing dishes with vibrant Central American cooking and you have the Mexican breakfast: a restorative cure-all, an everyman’s delight, a meal that’s filling enough to last the day. Delivering it up best is El Huarachito, a bastion of comfort nestled in a former Lincoln Heights shoe repair shop. The thick huarache con chorizo is crisped on the bottom and liberally snowed with quesa fresca; the vegetarian plate with carrots, peppers, nopalitos, and potatoes in a chile-infused cream sauce envelops you from the inside out. But it’s the huevos rancheros—splattered with red-gold salsa and accompanied by seasoned papas burnished by the griddle—that has us melting into the Formica table.