El Huarache Azteca

The cemita, a classic Puebla sandwich, has gained popularity thanks to an armored division of carnitas-slinging trucks. But there is no such evangelizing corps for the huarache, an elongated strip of masa without any particular provenance. El Huarache Azteca makes the dish a high point. A team of aproned ladies pulls the dough into shape like Mozza line cooks and considers fillings like hog’s maw, tongue, and beans and cheese with the seriousness of sushi chefs.