There’s an airy Southwest feel to this Mexican café, with its denim-cactus-hibiscus color scheme. Owned by Blair Salisbury of the El Cholo family, it has an authentic, heartily executed menu and an order-at-the-register speed. The tortas are pileups of beef, pork, chicken, and shrimp; the crispy taquitos are exceptional; and the spicy pozole has outsize chunks of deliriously tender pork. All of it’s good with the aguas frescas or the house margarita. Breakfasts are serious here—huevo burritos and chorizo, por ejemplo—and the bakery makes delicious muffins, rolls, and sweet breads.