Crustacean

The setting (ceiling fans with woven paddles) is colonial Vietnamese dosed with theme park (a Plexiglas-covered aquarium that serves as a walkway). Dishes like garlic noodles, Drunken Crab, and Shaken Beef get all the press, but less showy plates such as a trio of steamed dumplings (mushrooms, chicken, and beef) are the real stars.