A partnership between restauranteur couple Claudio and Adria Blotta (Barbix) and chef couple Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat (formerly of Ammo), Cook’s County is market driven and market tested. It takes a lot of skill to know how to harness great produce without mucking it up. Fried cardoons are cocooned in a gossamer Parmesan-laced batter. Pork loin practically purrs on a helping of wide-bore polenta integrale. Jullpat’s tangelo custard pie is the ultimate Orangesicle.