His popular restaurant and pizzeria make Michael Dene the dean of Italian dining in Long Beach. Now the restaurateur is a rancher, too. His steak house in Naples will feature Chianina, a prized cattle being bred at a Utah ranch. The grass-fed beef won’t hit the kitchen until April, but for now you can enjoy hulking cuts of devilishly tender Piedmontese beef, enhanced by salt, pepper, rosemary, and good olive oil. Old-school steak house staples—roasted bone marrow with onion jam, creamed spinach, potatoes au gratin—are done justice. There’s even a boozy rum baba for dessert, served with candied fruit and Chantilly cream.