Cecconi’s

Aston Martins are parked out front, air kissing abound on the patio, and chef Andrea Cavaliere is in the kitchen. Crisp asparagus spears give zing to creamy burrata. Plenty of pristine tartares are on the menu, too, but the lack of braised dishes adds up. The technique is there; the robust earthiness that serves as a cornerstone of the traditional Italian table is not.