Yep, you’re going to wait 40 minutes for a table, and we wouldn’t recommend straying far from the pizza. But when the waitress places that metal stand down on your red-checkered tablecloth—a sure sign your pie is incoming—try not to grin. This is pizza that’s worth the hype: distinctive, medium-framed crust with carbony specks, a robust tomato sauce, a generous coating of mozzarella, and toppings like fennel-tinged house-made sausage and pieces of eggplant breaded and fried. For that, we’ll wait all night. Cash only.