Brirrieria Apatzingan

Best Huevos Rancheros, August 2014

Most local versions of huevos rancheros, or ranch-style eggs, are little more than the apathetic ladling of salsa over fried eggs, with gratuitous sides and dressings. Done correctly, the Mexican breakfast dish is made with a tomato-based sauce flavored with chiles and accompanied by rice, tortillas, and refried beans, or—as at Birrieria Apat-zingan in Pacoima—a zesty guisado, or stew. Here the slow-cooked pork ribs add heft to a delicately spiced salsa verde of tomatillos and green chiles or a salsa rojo of dried chiles and tomatoes. The rich concoctions are poured over satiny eggs that have been fried in a generous amount of hot oil—just like Abuelita used to make.