Locals pile into this modest space (the coveted tables are in the breezeway between the dining room and a cooking academy nearby) for what is the neighborhood’s most elevated Italian cooking. Dishes come from all over: respectable thin-crust pizza, terrific sautéed whitefish, pillowy gnocchi, and to start, arugula with baby artichoke hearts salad. You can’t go wrong with the gelato or the flourless chocolate cake for dessert.