Each of the hand-shaped loaves at this growing chain of cafés belongs to one of seven families of dough. The raisin-walnut and olive breads are descendants of the “Tour de France” clan, while the curcuma-hazelnut is of the “Golden West” tribe. The sweetly aromatic buckwheat ficelle (a thin baguette) showcases a grain we rarely see these days, but it’s the more glamorous squid ink-dyed pain de mie—a black Pullman-style loaf with thick strokes of gold leaf on its shiny dome—that’s the showstopper.