On the one hand, this is a steak house in a mall. On the other, it’s a fine-tuned Michael Mina operation where the overall experience adds up to more than the sum of its parts. Maybe it was the elaborate (if a bit silly) tableside bourbon ceremony that made the live piano seem charming, not cheesy. Was it the velvety wing chairs that had us happily (if mindlessly) noshing on Mina’s hamachi and tuna “poppers”—his take on Katsuya’s crispy rice cakes? À la carte steaks are inarguably excellent, and sides like truffle mac and cheese round everything out. Don’t think too much—just let the polished staff, great cocktails, and thick steaks do their job.