We fell in love with Kevin Bludso’s barbecue on a rickety stool at his original Compton shack. The spice-rubbed brisket and stand-a-fork-in-it mac and cheese require no trappings. But now, thanks to the team behind the Fairfax burger joint Golden State and blogger-cum-restaurateur Noah Galuten, Texas-style BBQ can be had in a polished Hollywood sports bar-like spot, complete with mint julep in a silver goblet. Can’t swing a gluttonous sampler tray? Might we suggest smoke-infused rib tips, supermoist chicken (the dark horse), pork jowl-studded greens, and butter-rich apple pie, which is baked daily by Galuten’s mom.