On a quiet stretch in Silver Lake, Blair’s fills candlelit tables and casual bar stools with regulars and first dates. They gather for sweet potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms, pan-roasted halibut with Spanish chorizo, and what could be the best short ribs in town. Doughnuts may be de rigueur on menus these days, but how many are made with Belgian Abbey ale and dunked in toffee sauce?