Billy’s Deli & Cafe

Evelyn “Evy” Rondino could have the best deli-waitress shtick in L.A. She delivers asides, performs double takes, and brushes off orders as wrong. “No, honey,” she might respond to a knockwurst sandwich request, “that’s not for you.” The old-fashioned interior is a curious mix of ceiling fans, sepia murals of downtown Glendale, and bas-relief moldings. A bakery counter serves black-and-white cookies and macaroons. Although the food has an uncompromising density, it is graced by telling detail—the homemade pickles are proof of that. Many come simply for the brisket sandwich au jus. Should you special-order the noodle kugel, Evy’s been known to say, “This will turn you into a nice Jewish boy,” as she sets down the portion.