Barrel & Ashes

Usually chefs with fancy bios spend too much time in the kitchen to master the barbecue pit. But Timothy Hollingsworth (the French Laundry) and Rory Herrmann (Bouchon Beverly Hills) are trying to prove they’re serious with this nonregional ’cue and cocktails joint in the Valley. Impeccably sourced meats are a promising start: Teeth are unnecessary for the gargantuan and gooey Berkshire pork short rib, and slices of Omaha beef brisket are marbled with smoky fat. Sausages have snap, especially the ones with jalapeño and cheddar. The chefs’ pedigrees shine in the sides, where gourmet-level nuance is infused into everything from spicy braised greens to a hoecake drenched in butter. Libations by acclaimed barman Julian Cox up the ante.