The owners of Atch-Kotch have brought a little bit of their sitting room to their dining room. She knits; he does crosswords. This has long been the place to go in Hollywood for Japanese noodles. The menu revolves around ramen, udon, and soba. The food is refined, the prices modest. A bowl of ramen comes draped with truffle-like shavings of barbecued pork. The accompanying shrimp-fried rice bears the sear of the wok.