Angelini Osteria

Gino Angelini grew up on the green lasagna his grandma made in Rimini and came to L.A. to help Mauro Vincenti open Rex in the mid-’90s. He is not above finishing a crostino of lardo with white truffle shavings, but his wheelhouse is a more understated realm: The soup is thick with soft cubed potatoes, tripe is buoyed by a slow-cooked soffritto, and all those veal kidneys need is cooked-down onions and a splash of white wine.