All’ Acqua

The Italian obsession continues in Atwater Village. The team behind Silver Lake’s Barbrix (Adria Tennor, Claudio Blotta, and chef Don Dickman) has opened a grand—yet still very Eastside—Italian restaurant and wine bar in an unrecognizable former Acapulco. Every neighborhood deserves access to primo charcuterie, cacio e pepe, and pizzas decked out with littleneck clams or soppressata with Calabrian chiles. The menu borders on overwhelming: There are sides such as braised pea tendrils, secondi like grilled lamb shoulder, plus generous spreads of antipasti, salads, and cheese. Hit the wine bar for a bite and a blond negroni or grab a table beneath the Sputnik chandeliers to indulge in pork loin milanesa and one of L.A.’s smartest new wine lists.