9021Pho

The award for best name for a pho restaurant goes to this latest effort from Kimmy Tang, one of L.A.’s queens of Vietnamese cooking. Tucked inside a tiny former pizza parlor in Beverly Hills, this low-key café specializes in the Vietnamese noodle soup. Here it’s a cleaned-up version, meaning no tripe, gizzard, and the like. Instead, sliced rare beef, beef ball, chicken breast, tuna, and tofu make up the proteins bobbing alongside some of the finest rice noodles to be slurped outside Little Saigon. For a zestier bowl, try the Spicy N’ Sour soup with shrimp, fish, and pineapple in a heady chili and tamarind broth. Plated options include crispy fried sole, a pert salad of green papaya and prawns, and vegan spring rolls. There’s no Tiger beer here, but the selection of teas had us buzzing.