It’s not easy to make over the local pie joint, but 32-year-old chef Daniele Uditi has reimagined an urban standby with equal parts purism and playfulness, becoming a neighborhood favorite in the process. Most impressive is the open-mindedness that has him deftly transform the Roman pasta dish cacio e pepe into a pizza or putting a hearty short rib ragù on the Pignatiello pie. And in a real twist, appetizers and seasonal salads are not afterthoughts but highlights. The pizzeria is also making its famous, limited-edition sub sandwiches more readily available (check Instagram) and has been making free meals for doctors and nurses Pickup and delivery via ChowNow. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.