The Roost at LA Farm

The Westside’s power lunch standby has morphed yet again, this time into the Roost at LA Farm. It’s too early to tell whether regulars will appreciate the menu of John Keenan (Craft L.A.), which is way more creative than it needs to be. Vinegar-doused fish-and-chips is made with skate wing—a smart spin. Sweetbreads are chicken fried and topped with sinful waffle bits; a supremely juicy bacon-wrapped pork loin channels the season with a side of smoky chard and cannellini. The courtyard has slightly more atmosphere than the dining room, which feels more Holiday Inn than hip.