L.A.’s poke proliferation is real. But while most joints offer Hawaii’s answer to ceviche in a Chipotle-esque array of fish, sauces, and chichi toppings, Redondo Beach’s JUS’ POKE is authentically spare. Hunks of raw ahi are available in four styles (original, spicy, shoyu, and wasabi), each using a base of sea salt, scallion, sweet onion, and lacy ogo seaweed. Accompanied by a heap of furikake-sprinkled rice and a side of your choice (Aunty’s Pickled Cukes are a must), the “small” is Big Island huge.