Masters of Mexican barbecue, or barbacoa, know that the best meat is roasted in an underground pit. But try telling that to the health department. Former engineer Paco Perez, chef-owner of AQUI ES TEXCOCO in Commerce, invented an oven that mimics subterranean cooking. The result is succulent lamb barbecue flavored with century plant and avocado leaves. Wrap some in a tortilla and enjoy the taste of tradition with a side of consommé.