Peace Out With Peak Ingredients

Nikki Nakayama trained at a traditional Japanese ryokan to learn the art of kaiseki—a ritualistic, multicourse meal that highlights ingredients at their peak. At n/naka the procession of dishes is a ceremony in itself, and there’s a sanctified air to the West L.A. dining room. One bite of Nakayama’s signature pasta preparation had us invoking a higher power.—LESLEY BARGAR SUTER