Cheap Eats: Southern


Icon by Peter Hoey

Feel that Southern cooking in L.A. is as scarce as deviled eggs at a church picnic? Visit Flossie’s in Torrance, where two bills and change buys you catfish plus three sides and corn muffins. Half a dozen other homey plates are offered—meat loaf, smothered chicken—but the main event is the sideshow: black-eyed peas, red beans with rice, and a corn pudding you could hand out on Halloween. To wash it down? What else—sweet tea. » 3566 Redondo Beach Blvd., Torrance, 310-352-4037.

Honey’s Kettle Fried Chicken
»9537 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310-202-5453.

Roscoe’s House of Chicken ’n Waffles 
In Jackie Brown, Samuel L. Jackson lures Chris Tucker to his death with the promise of a free plate at Roscoe’s. Had Tucker made it, no doubt he would have ordered the Carol C Special—a heavily crusted breast paired with the puffy waffle that harmonizes sweet, salt, and fat. All the cooking is down-home: rich greens, smothered livers, and biscuits as light as helium. » 1514 N. Gower St., Hollywood, 323-466-7453. Also in Long Beach, Mid City, Pasadena, and South L.A.

Uncle Darrow’s
Crack the cornmeal shells that wrap each deep-fried mollusk inside the oyster po’boys here, and your reward is a briny burst of Louisiana ozone. Gumbo is alive with bayou blue crabs, while the “bean-balaya,” a mash-up of jambalaya and red beans and rice, is—we swear—healthful, made without lard. Also light enough to leave room for the peach cobbler are the supper oysters, shrimp, or catfish, grilled on request. » 2560 S. Lincoln Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310-306-4862.