It’s hard to say what’s more intricate at the Wolves—the room or the drinks. With Batchelder floor tiles, antique lampposts, stained glass, and a Belle Epoque-era ceiling from a Lyonnaise train station, the cocktail bar feels like you’ve stepped into Paris circa 1914. Ambitious barman Kevin Lee crafts every amaro, vermouth, and liqueur from scratch.
Warm jazz and a no-standing policy make for a classy ambience but can lead to long waits. Le Néant, a separate bar upstairs, offers bespoke cocktail tastings.
Bourbon Cranberry with Smoke blends the Kentucky spirit with orange and cranberry liqueurs and vermouth; it’s then sealed in a carafe with smoke from a burning port barrel stave. For the Fernet & Mango, Lee stirs amaro with tequila, fermented mangoes, and nectarine-clove liqueur. Amazingly, it works.
519 S. Spring St., downtown.
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