Yes, they’re thymus glands, and yes, they’re delicious. Chefs citywide play with the many moods of sweetbreads 

1. Bashan
At 75 percent cholesterol, sweetbreads are rich. To tone down that intensity, chef Nadav Bashan combines them with a cold relish of piquillo peppers and sun-dried tomatoes. » 3459 N. Verdugo Rd., Glendale, 818-541-1532.

2. La Cachette
Chef Jean Francois Meteigner slowly sautés the normally gamy glands, then serves them alongside a small morel forest with a port reduction. If you close your eyes, you’ll swear this is foie gras. » 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310-470-4992.

3. Spago Beverly Hills
Officially the sweetbread dish comes with an orange-kohlrabi puree, a confit of bacon, and black trumpet mushrooms. But go off-menu and they get dropped into a tamarind-date chutney or penned in with lobster by a parsnip-quince puree. » 176 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-385-0880.

4. Lucques
Cooked up fluffy, tucked into a potato puree, and layered with honeyed vinegar, these sweetbreads taste like eggy challah French toast streaked with Vermont maple syrup. » 8474 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-655-6277.

Photograph by Edmund Barr