Su It Goes: Pairing Inventive Food with Beer at Eagle Rock’s Public House

Dark beer with raw oysters? Chef Jerry Su shares great–and sometimes surprising–pairings from his new brewpub

During its renovation this summer, the space that would become Public House on Colorado Boulevard (previously Fatty’s), was an epicenter of anticipation for Northeast L.A. food and beer enthusiasts. Finally, to the delight of curious neighbors ready to pack the place, the Eagle Rock Brewery offshoot made its debut earlier this month with chef Jerry Su (Bouchon, Momofuku, Son of a Gun) at the helm. Complementing co-owners Ting Su (the chef’s sister) and Jeremy Raub’s game-changing craft beers on tap, the chef has created a menu of dishes much more sophisticated than basic brewpub fare—potted pig with quince mostarda, and seared scallops with raisin miso are just two examples.

To get the most out of  Su’s elevated offerings, we asked him to share his ideal beer and food pairings at Public House. Here are three picks:

Solidarity & Oysters on the Half Shell
“Few people may think of dark beers and raw shellfish together, but it works rather well and can even be quite commonplace across the pond. Solidarity is a black mild that is bone dry with notes of chocolate and distinct minerality. Oysters span a broad spectrum of profiles, but I tend to like medium-bodied ones with a nice balance of sweetness and brine. That said, these two go together like chocolate and salt.”

Equinox & Duck Liver Toast
“Equinox is super seasonal and hard to come by, so I had to pair it with something the first chance I got. It’s a blonde sour that has an acute acidity with a deep oak-y complexity. Our duck liver toast is made with a touch of cognac, so the subtle vanilla in the rich liver mousse balances out nicely with the tartness of Equinox and emphasizes the oak. The dish is also garnished with wood sorrel, providing just a bit of grassiness to the mix.”

Mel’s Bells & Farro “Risotto”
“Mel’s Bells is a special pink beer that was brewed for Breast Cancer Awareness Month and benefited the Keep A Breast Foundation. It’s a hoppy saison that was colored with beets, although there are no traces of beets in the flavor. Our farro “risotto” however, is accompanied with roasted beets, shaved fennel, citrus, and popped amaranth. It happens to be a vegan dish, so it’s not a true risotto by any means, but the creamy texture, earthy notes, and sweetness of the beets play nicely with the dry, hoppy refreshment of Mel’s Bells.” Eagle Rock Public House, 1627 Colorado Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-739-0081