On any given day since Sqirl opened its doors in 2011, you could bet money on seeing a line of hungry people at least ten deep outside Jessica Koslow’s Virgil Village breakfast-and-lunch standby. Social distancing has put a crimp in many an L.A. ritual, and that’s just one of them.
But while many restaurants have cut their hours or closed altogether during the temporary moratorium on dining out, Sqirl has actually expanded its hours, offering its sorrel pesto rice bowl, ricotta toast, chicken porridge, and more for take-out and delivery from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
We highly recommend supporting those efforts, but on those morning when you feel like treating yourself self-quarantine style, here’s a simple, delicious recipe from Koslow’s 2016 cookbook.
Vegetally Versatile Frittata
Makes one frittata (six inches). Serves one very hungry person or two modestly hungry people.
2 big handfuls (about 70 grams) greens—spinach, chard, or kale leaves (no fibrous stems)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cumin
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Fresh herbs or spices of your choice
Fleur de sel for taste
1⁄2 lemon (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)
First, make the veggie puree. Fill a bowl with ice water. Drop the greens into a pot of boiling salted water and blanch for one minute. Transfer the greens to the ice bath. Let cool, then drain and squeeze out excess water. Using a food processor or a blender, puree the greens along with two tablespoons of olive oil, a small handful of fresh herbs such as parsley and tarragon, and a pinch of salt.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Crack the eggs into a bowl and add two pinches of salt. Whisk to break up the eggs, then whisk in the veggie puree.
Melt the butter in a six-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the egg-veggie mixture, stir for 15 seconds with a rubber spatula, then move the skillet to the oven. Exactly eight minutes later, check in on the frittata. It should look slightly puffed (like a soufflé) and feel firm (not jiggly and wet) around the edges. If it needs another minute, leave it in the oven until it’s just cooked, but take care not to overcook. The middle will be the last part to finish cooking and, as you get the hang of it, you’ll see that if you take the skillet out of the oven when the middle is still a tiny bit jiggly, the residual heat will finish cooking it.
Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel and a squeeze of lemon juice, and serve with hot sauce.
Reprinted from Everything I Want to Eat by Jessica Koslow (Abrams 2016).